Difficulty: EE (Expert Hikers)
Starting from Rifugio Tazzetti (2,642 m): Elevation gain approximately 900 m — Time: approximately 2h45.
If starting from Lake Malciaussia (1895 m): Elevation gain 1,650 m - Time: approximately 5h30.

Access:

Go up the entire Viu Valley. Once you reach Margone, continue along the road until its end, near the Malciaussia Lake dam.

Ascent:

From Lake Malciaussia follow the large dirt path that runs along it, heading towards the pointed Rocciamelone.
The road that runs along the lake follows the base of vast and high grassy slopes, passes the nearby Pietramorta huts (1812 m) then, after passing the lake, approaches the valley stream and crosses it to the left via a small bridge.
On the slope of the opposite bank you immediately encounter a fork: to the left the path climbs to the Colle della Croce di Ferro, to the right the path continues to Rifugio Tazzetti. After crossing the initial gentle meadows, the path begins to follow the main stream from above, overshadowed by the steep sides of Punta di Pietramorta (2577 m). Almost level, with slight ups and downs and ancient shepherd branches, the path continues for a long time along the bank then turns left and enters the small valley of Rio Medagliere; with steeper climbing, along the new left orographic side, you soon reach this stream a few steps below an excellent spring (2100 m).
You gain elevation on the opposite slope, furrowed by small waterfalls, where the path makes long switchbacks between the two streams further to the right (shortcuts are not recommended).
At the top you cross the last channel to the right then continue, almost level, cutting across the very steep slope. In this way you begin to leave the Medagliere valley to enter the Rio Rumour valley where Rifugio Tazzetti stands.

On the mid-slope, on the dark right orographic side, you cross a vast rocky area with sparse grass where a short rough passage on bare rock can be bypassed with the lower path. You then pass at the base of a characteristic small rocky peak; the refuge, quite visible, is high but not far, on the green opposite slope.
The path approaches the stream becoming level and reaches, just upstream of a waterfall, the ford basin which is filled with snow until late summer (2530 m).
After crossing the stream to the right, you tackle the switchbacks of the steep grassy slope facing south until you end, to the left, on the sunny plateau where Rifugio Tazzetti is built.
From the left side of the refuge take the well-marked path that goes away at the back and tackles the steep slope that overlooks the refuge. With very steep gradient and tight turns the trail gains the ridge of a crest, immediately to the right of its characteristic rocky tooth visible from the refuge (2750 m). Good panorama.
Turn left and follow the crest that, coming from Colle della Resta, divides the Fons d'Rumour basin from that of Cavalle to the north.
The path rarely touches the ridge line and stays, preferably, below and to the right of it, advancing at mid-slope, with moderate gradient, among stunted grass and small rocks.
Ahead stretches the very long section of the watershed, almost horizontal, which begins to the right of Rocciamelone and extends to Punta del Fort (3385 m). Next to Rocciamelone the vast Glacier de Rochemelon, almost entirely in French territory, overflows into Italy with some large tongues (currently in strong retreat); immediately to the right of the northernmost one is the passage point of our route: the rocky relief at 3260 m where a metal cross is fixed. Below and to the right of this relief extends the regular, wide, horizontally-layered scarp-wall that we must overcome.

Meanwhile, following the red paint marks that indicate the path, you reach a "castle" of light-colored rock that blocks the crest: bypass it briefly on the left, over steep but well-stepped and elementary rocks. Continue with the track that touches the edge of a nearby plateau of debris and snowfields with some memorial crosses (3000 m); do not be drawn to the left by an inviting small valley, but rather climb to the right following the trace that, going up a small rocky area, leads to crossing a stream, above a black and obvious waterfall (3060 m). Last safe water. Crossing the stream to the right is one of the key points of the route.
The vast, enigmatic and steep scarp-wall of "rotten rock" begins, all streaked with ledges and terraces invaded by gravel and interspersed with small rocky jumps. Climb following the serpentines along the steep left orographic bank of the stream; shortly you reach the level of the top of a characteristic vertical edge of yellow rock belonging to the opposite bank.
At this point two routes are possible; the first, shorter and marked with red paint, consists of climbing directly towards the cross following roughly the bank of the channel: there is no obligatory development, tend rather a bit to the right, never to the left. Despite being apparently impassable, the slope is overcome fairly easily, but with great caution, passing from one terrace to another. At the top, below the summit cliff, a short traverse to the left is made reaching the nearby small rocky crest that descends to the south-east; via the easy rocks of this latter you overcome the last 70 meters of elevation gain and reach the metal cross placed on Colle della Resta (3260 m). This route must be traveled with great circumspection by large groups due to the danger of loose stones. The second route, easier and less steep, is slightly more indirect than the other. It is not marked with paint and has no obvious track as it is little known. It develops as follows: climb with a decided tendency to the right, without obligatory passages, in the direction of a niche-crack 3 meters high and 1 meter wide, clearly visible from a distance and then again from close up.
Crossing slightly marked channels and crossing small ridges you arrive 60 meters from the niche; climb along a rib and then, leaning to the right, enter a small channel placed almost vertically above the niche.
This easy channel, oblique to the right and 20 meters long, rarely snow-covered, opens onto the border crest at 3290 m and is about 120 meters away from the relief with the cross. Apart from the steepness of the slope crossed, which is strong only in a few sections and which requires caution anyway, the progression occurs only with simple walking, without using your hands.

From both points reached you easily descend to the very nearby edge of the level Glacier de Rochemelon: we are north-north-east of the summit and finally we can see the second part of our excursion which will end with the linear north-west crest, the one that stands out most distant. Advance on the glacier heading south-west, towards the depression at the base of the crest; long walk with slight ups and downs: no crevasses are remembered in this sector of the glacier, nor sharp undulations but, with strong retreat, significant irregularities can occur. Continuous vigilance is therefore required and perhaps the use of crampons.
After passing the middle of the glacier bend somewhat to the right and, choosing the easiest route, climb to the gentle depression (3330 m) of the border hilltop which is rather far from the base of the final crest: Difficult orientation in case of fog.
Follow the level crest, of minute debris, using the track on its right side and finally climb the elegant north-west crest right along the ridge. Although exposed in some points, the climb is truly easy (if there is no snow) and culminates at the summit plateau, at the feet of the great statue of the Madonna.
Advance on the glacier heading south-west, towards the depression at the base of the crest; long walk with slight ups and downs: no crevasses are remembered in this sector of the glacier, nor sharp undulations but, with strong retreat, significant irregularities can occur. Continuous vigilance is therefore required and perhaps the use of crampons.
After passing the middle of the glacier bend somewhat to the right and, choosing the easiest route, climb to the gentle depression (3330